Garden Irrigation, Pt 1

Some more background to my 'home assistant powered irrigation system' -- I'll write up a couple more articles as build progresses - I'm still waiting on some critical parts to arrive, like PVC pipe fittings and an Arduino Mega.

The Grand Plan.
The 2 main garden bed areas need to be automatically watered. The small 'hexagon' area contains 6 raised beds and a small central area. The main veggie patch (still being built. slow progress...) is around 20 beds. Later automation will include more smarts (hooking in my rainfall sensor, some buried gypsum sensors and soil temperature monitoring), but for now, the priority is to save on the 30-60 mins with a hosepipe in the evenings. Oh, and we're on tank (rainwater collection) water, so wastage is bad mmmkay.

The irrigation units themselves won't be 'smart' - All they need to do is send valve (relay) status, and respond to controls. I have an internal MQTT message broker, so a basic arduino + ethernet shield + 8 channel relay board does the small bed, and an arduino mega + ethernet (or an ethermega) + 3 8 channel relay shields the main veggie patch.

Sample arduino code is available on GitHub, (functions? who needs functions...) and yeah, it's not elegant. While it follows the syntax for the home assistant MQTT switch device, some of the defaults aren't the same, so I need to explictitly set them for now in the hass config. such as

switch:
  - platform: mqtt
    name: Hexagon bed 1
    icon: mdi:water
    availability_topic: status/hexIrrigation
    command_topic: control/hexIrrigation/valve1
    payload_on: "1"
    payload_off: "0"
    state_topic: status/hexIrrigation/valve1
    state_on: "On"
    state_off: "Off"

You can see here that I use status/hexIrrigation as LWT (so I know if the controllers on/offline) as well as the the relay state. I'm only using retain on the LWT, not the valves themselves. Power cycling the unit will (should!) reset back to all solenoids off, but I don't yet check and publish this, so hass may get confused if it loses comms. "Fixed in the next release" apparently :-)

I also want to integrate a flow sensor into each unit if possible (suspect I'm running out of digital IO on the small unit) to get an overall volume of water that's gone into the garden - fed, as normal into grafana.

I'll throw in another couple of postings (with pics) as the build progresses. but today I had an audience while working on the fence... (it will be fully netted to keep out the possums, pademelons and our hens)

Measuring empy space

If you've been following my recent posts on twitter, you'll be aware that I've finally got round to hooking up the MaxBotix rangefinders into our water tanks. So far I've done the main house tank and have sketches and buried duct ready to do the ones that water the garden.

Some more technical details here than I can fit in tweets:
* The sensors themselves sit through the roof of the tank. This involves drilling a 3/4" hole in the top of the tank and inserting the sensor from below, so you won't want to put it more than an arms reach from the access hole. The sensors I purchased have NPR thereads not BSP, so you may want to pick up matching nuts at the same time depending on local availability.
* I mounted some 6-way header pins on the sensor, and soldered the female end onto the cable so that it didn't twist as I tightened it up. All mounted in a 20mm conduit box on the tank.

Inside the shed, I'm just using a clone arduino with a wiznet ethernet shield (ebay/aliexpress) and a very basic sketch using the pulse width measurement from the sensor. As normal, it's available on GitHub for anyone interested. It pushes to an on-site MQTT broker (mosquitto) that's used to gather various sensor metrics and fed into home-assistant, where it also gets archived into InfluxDB for longer term plots

status/housetanksensor online

sensors/housetanks/depthbelowsensor 419

sensors/housetanks/litres 20762

I use the status for LWT messages, and the sensors has the raw air-gap measurement (mm below sensor - range is 300 -> 5000) as well as a calculated volume (see the arduino code for constants and calculation)

Importing into hass is as simple as

  - platform: mqtt

    name: House water tanks volume

    icon: mdi:water-pump

    availability_topic: status/housetanksensor

    unit_of_measurement: l

    state_topic: sensors/housetanks/litres

into the configuration.yaml

Next up, getting the irrigation system working...

PSU tinkering, Part 1

As previously blogged, I've got a couple of 12v 88.7A PSUs that I'm trying to control under arduino. Stage 1 complete - It powers up with a trivial bit of code

/* Arduino control for (ex) server PSU 
 * Andrew Elwell <andrew.elwell@gmail.com> August 2016
 * Released under BSD licence
 */

 /* Controls / Pins based on data sheet available at 
  *  https://belfuse.com/resources/PowerSolutions/SFP1050/bcd20031_ab_sfp1050-12bg.pdf
  *  
  *  A6/B4/C4/D4         +3.3 standby (power to arduino)
  *  A3/B1/B3/C1/C3/D3   Return 
  *  B5(SDA) / C5(SCL)   I2C
  *  B6                  Bring low for PS ON
  *  C6                  AC OK (if high)
  *  D6                  PWR OK (if high)
  *  
  */


#include <wire.h>

int ACOK  = 2;
int PSON  = 3;
int PWROK = 4;
int LED   = 13;

void setup() {
  Wire.begin();                // join i2c bus (address optional for master)
  pinMode(ACOK, INPUT);
  pinMode(PSON, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(PWROK, INPUT);
  pinMode(LED,  INPUT);
  
  digitalWrite(PSON,HIGH) ;   // Stay off until ready
}

void loop() {
  if (digitalRead(ACOK) == HIGH) {
    digitalWrite(PSON,LOW) ;
  } 
  if (digitalRead(PWROK) == HIGH) {
    digitalWrite(LED,HIGH) ;
  } 
}

The one gotcha that I needed to get it working was to also bring PS A0 low (I2C address) and suddenly green led and 12v out!

I've got the power

(It's getting, it's getting, it's getting kinda hectic)

So, another "I should really get round to that" project that's worked its way to the top of the desk is repurposing a skip-dived server PSU (or 4) to be more usable.

Exhibit A - One ex-sun 'SPASUNM-03G' PSU, which spits out a fairly chunky 12v at 86.7A

Since these were pulled from a bunch of servers, the output is a less than friendly set of three paired contacts for +12 and another set of three pairs or the ground. It won't start spitting out 12v when you plug a mains lead in as it needs the PS_ON connector bringing low. Power-one seem to gave been bought out by bel, and the datasheet is available here.

Rather than the (sometimes) crude way people have modified these and similar server PSUs over at RC Groups, I thought I'd hook up an arduino and be "smart"

So - Grand Plan (TM)

* Nice big illuminated push button for on/standby

* LCD display to show status (output / alarms / temp)

* No screaming 'fan-at-maximum' setting all the time

This shouldn't be that hard, right? Arduinos can do i2c and I have a bunch of 3.3v ones to hand, so I can drive this off the stby 3.3v (even that's at 3A on this thing)

TO THE SOLDERING IRON! ... to be continued

All around the water tank, waiting for the rain...

Having the luxury of mains water means that I don't really care in fanatical detail about the state of the dam water levels for Perth (except that "it's lower than it should really be"). However with our new place being entirely dependant on rainwater collection off the roof into storage tanks, I'd like to know the levels of the various tanks (and therefore the volume remaining).

So, what's available - simplest is knocking on the side of the tank and guessing from the sound how full. Not terribly reliable or hi-tech, but is cheap. Dipstick also cheap, but requires removing filter cover. Next up are external gauges - Our tank supplier stocks the Yaktek Levetator, but that's not really any good when I'm not on site. Hence, it's time to investigate the electronic options:

This thread on whirlpool mentions the Electrosense Aquagauge, but at $265 each plus telemetry thats not cheap. The Jaycar ultrasonic one may be OK, but as it doesn't have a serial / usb  output from the display, I'd need to hack up something to parse the RF (as others have done). So datasheet hunting time:

The MaxBotix series looks like it's pretty much ideal - 1mm resolution, 5m max range, weather resistant. Annoyingly I can't see it cheaper than the ~100 USD on the manufacturer site (sparkfun et al. only have the MB7360 not the MB7369), but at least there's a local supplier.  A slightly different model (MB7060) is being used by the flood network.

Next up is trying to work out how to connect them - My options are:

• Wired - Etherten or possibly something as simple as serial-ethernet adaptor
• Wireless - wemos / ESP8266 for wifi (power hungry?)
• Wireless - rfm type TX/RX setup to basestation
• lora - nice but possibly expensive as I'd need a gateway.

I suspect this particular blog entry will get updated as things progress..

Metering Musings

I've been intermittently trying to get our smart metering datafeed out to to a server for better logging, but I don't want to run a 300W PC to tell me my baseload in the house is 300+N W. There are several clamp meter / arduino designs thanks to the folks like OpenEnergyMonitor and Nanode, but things should be easier as there's a nice serial out already documented by ERDF (there's also the upcoming 'linky' interface but we're still on old-school)

How much does all this malarkey cost -- off the shelf there are USB opto interfaces, but they're about €50 each (erk) I originally purchased an arduino datalogger shield (€40 + an arduino) hoping to use it with a nanode, but I  didn't get ethernet sending working (even after the slight hardware mod) - possibly due to known issues with stash depletion

So - where do we go (cheaply) from here? a R-Pi gives me cheap hardware with more stable ethernet but I'd have to interface in the opto tty interface (gpio? usb?) as there's no onboard serial. Plan B is to use my bifferboard and use the console interface: small, yep. Low power, yep. Decent ethernet and OS (openwrt) - yes.

So, time to order some parts and get down to prototyping...

DHT22 + Arduino

I recently purchased a DHT22 (Also known as RHT03 on Sparkfun) from Proto-Pic temp and humidity sensor with the aim of using it as an outdoor sensor in the garden. Although there are several DHT22 libraries on github I couldn't get the nethoncho one (or the patched forks) to return anything other than checksum error.

However the combined dht11/22 one I found linked on arduino.cc seems to work just fine. Need to test with -ve temps next but an overnight plot on the bench seems reasonable

Despite many forums saying that it needs 5v I've managed to get it working OK with the 3.3v pin on my nanode, next step is to test on a jeenode and send the output via RF. Oh, and then get a solar panel to run the thing...

Teleinfo update

I''ve been using a teleinfo shield on a nanode to try and datalog our electricity usage, but the logging to the CSV file kept truncating as if the arduino had locked up. There have been discussions elsewhere that this may be related to the code in arduino 1.0 so I decided to rewrite a step at a time to try and debug the problem.

Some observations on the way:

1) having to flip a jumper over on the shield between programming and run is *very* annoying in a cold garage, so I'm going to rewire it slightly to use SoftwareSerial on a spare input (leave JP1 open and wire from one side of it to a spare pin) - I already have a link since the shield tries to use DIG6 by default which is used by the red LED on a nanode.

2) the arduino IDE doesn't like anything other than 8N! on the serial monitor. close it and use kermit. if you can't read serial with kermit, then it's *very* broken :-)

3q) our usage is going UP not down :-( -- lowest figure I managed to get the baseline to was 340VA

With a very simple logger

    Serial.print(char(meter.read()));

I can stream the output to a kermit session log as

^B
ADCO 040222048573 <
OPTARIF BASE 0
ISOUSC 30 9
BASE 040912359 ,
PTEC TH.. $
IINST 002 Y
IMAX 029 J
PAPP 00340 (
MOTDETAT 000000 B^C

next trick is to try and get the processing organised into blocks and validate the checksum, but my code doesn't seem to detect the stx/etx properly

void loop() {
if(meter.available()>0) {
  if((c = meter.read()) == 02) {     // start of block
    Serial.println("DEBUG: Start Loop");
    while((c = meter.read()) != 03) {      // Loop until end of block
      Serial.print(char(c));
    }
    digitalWrite(LED, LOW); // Flash LED
    delay(50);
    digitalWrite(LED, HIGH);
  }
}
}

so mode debugging called for. Once thats done, then I'll send the values to an emon style display over rfm12b

Metering

So I finally got round to wiring in the 'Teleinfo' shield into my EDF meter (see my earlier post for more info) and left it running while we're away. Hacked up an initial couple of graphs using trusty gnuplot: exhibits A and B -

It's rather easy to spot where the fridge-freezer kicks in, but more worrying is the fact that the baseline never dips below 170VA. The only things that should have been running in that time was my via-eden server, with one HDD, the livebox and samknows monitoring box. I suspect I need to investigate more.

Made a minor hack to the shield as digi-6 is used by the LED on a nanode - but digi-7 is free.
Details were tweeted over here. Next up is to get it sending the info out to main box (well, another nanode or my bifferboard) and spitting to pachube and / or a jeelabs display board.

PoE Network controlled signage

I may have a requirement for several 'remote controlled' illuminated signs. (where remote could be network driven) - These aren't Scrolling LED 'calls in queue' type ones, but more the warning 'Laser on', 'Mic Live', 'Conveyor Running' type ones.

Normally these things seem to be driven directly from some local switchgear or output, but what if you want to gather status centrally , or illuminate the sign depending on some remote sensor (be it a web tsunami alert or the boss' car being picked up on the ANPR at the gate)

Cue a quick hacky prototype: Take one nanode and use the digital outputs to drive a mosfet to switch some cheap LED strips from IKEA. So far so good, but that requires a 12v (since thats what the strips use) supply. The nanode can take that on the screw inputs if you add a heatsink to the reguator, but I'd rather get rid of the PSU alltogether: cue a cheapo 802.3af PoE splitter from TP-Link, and I have the whole lot driveable off one RJ45 cable.

Onwards to software, and it looks like bitlash / restuino look useful (esp if I get the whole lot working with DHCP too).

Anyway, with a range of lighting areas possible (thanks to addressable outputs on the nanode) per display, the option to have a nice facia with multiple 'zones' illuminated is possible. Now to find a nice case...

nanode built!

One successful evening of soldering, and lo, I have a working nanode. Started off nice n basic with the resistors, but overall a pretty simple pcb to assemble:

Plugged it in, and lo, blinky LED. Have since flashed with the EtherShield Drivers and its happily getting an IP address. now for some pachube / twitter / other integration...

Electronic components

Vigilant readers (ha, who am I kidding) will have noticed I've been starting on some ATmega hackery, but I'd like to prototype up without needing to but an arduino (clone) card for each one. So, off to the electronics equivalent Laminated Book Of Dreams (ie, farnell) to stock up on core components.

Discussions have come up with something like the following list, but what else should be added?

* LEDs - Was going to get both a selection single and a couple of RGB ones
* pile of resistors
* capacitors - elecrolytic and ceramic
* Diodes - signal. power, zener
* Voltage regulators
* 2n7000 mosfets
* generic transistors
* couple of atmega chips, crystals etc (core componets of arduinos)
* battery holders
* reset switches
* hookup wire
* breadboard (one decent and one small)

More specific bits I also want are
* rf12 boards
* opto isolator for telemetry input
* moar jeenodes :-)

EDF metering and 'Tele-Info'

Just discovered via some google-fu that we have a Sagem C1000 series meter in the house, which includes

* Interface de télé-information client permettant le raccordement à un système de gestion d'énergie

so, with a bit more googling I discovered that it's 1200 baud, 7 bits one stop. and lo - there's even an arduino shield already made for it!

--- update ---
Have discovered that there are many hacks around to parse this teleinfo - some of which need a licence fee (!!!) and do fancy things like export to bdpv.fr

Sample of the data stream is at http://www.planete-domotique.com/blog/2010/03/30/la-teleinformation-edf

Hardware Hackery

I've just purchased a nanode to be the main part of the energy monitoring in the new house. More details about it are at http://wiki.hackspace.org.uk/wiki/Project:Nanode - I plan to use the nanode as the head unit, perhaps with a somple lcd display, talking to slave nodes (jeenodes or emontx boards) which do the data logging.

more info and construction details when it arrives.